From AI to Artistry: How VicenzaOro September 2024 Shaped the Future of Jewelry

| Esther Ligthart | Business & Industry

This year’s VicenzaOro September 2024 was more than just another jewelry event—it was an experience that sparked conversations about the future of our industry, showcased stunning collections, and addressed the pressing challenges we face today. From the excitement of the latest trends to in-depth discussions on the next generation’s role in the jewelry world, it was a whirlwind five days full of inspiration and valuable insights.

 

I arrived at Venice airport early on Friday morning, fresh off a flight from Amsterdam, ready to dive headfirst into the magic of VicenzaOro. With 1,200 exhibiting brands from 35 countries and over 450 buyers in attendance from 60 nations, this was set to be an event to remember. As always, I was thrilled to reconnect with my amazing peers in the industry—both press and influencers—and we all had the same feeling: this year, something was different. 

The Numbers Say It All

This year’s VicenzaOro edition saw record-breaking attendance again, with visitors from 132 countries. European attendance rose to 63%, up from 52% last year, and visitors from Asia and the Middle East jumped to 21%, compared to 17% in 2023. With ten new countries, including Honduras, Tajikistan, and Tanzania, joining the roster, the event's global reach was undeniable. These stats weren’t just numbers—they were a testament to the growing international importance of VicenzaOro. Yet, the show felt like everything was finally back to normal after COVID-19. 

Moreover, the event fell at the perfect time, as the Italian jewelry export market continued to thrive. Italian exports surged by +60%, an impressive figure considering global economic uncertainties. The Vicenza Expo Centre is undergoing a massive 60-million-euro redevelopment to expand and improve the event experience, and despite ongoing construction, the layout was seamless, making the event accessible to navigate.

Gender-Neutral Jewelry? Think Again—Men are Owning It!

One of the trends that absolutely stood out at VicenzaOro this year was the move toward gender-neutral jewelry. But it wasn’t just about creating pieces anyone can wear—this year, I saw a big shift in the media with celebrity men wearing traditionally "female" jewelry and completely owning it! Men are not just borrowing from women’s wardrobes but confidently embracing rings, necklaces, and even earrings. It’s beyond cool to see how this trend is evolving and shaking up the industry in all the best ways.

Designers respond with collections that speak to men and women without labels. Take Alessio Boschi’s Marco Polo Ring, for instance—it’s bold, intricate, and completely gender-fluid, designed to be worn by anyone who appreciates art in jewelry form. The Beetlejuice Beetlejuice collection by Fabergé was another favorite of mine—playful yet timeless; it proves that jewelry is becoming more about personal expression than fitting into gender norms.

AI: The Future of Jewelry is Here

As someone who closely follows artificial intelligence (AI), I was particularly interested in how many organizations are now working to dispel the fears surrounding AI and demonstrate its potential. During the event, trade organizations went all out to show members how AI can enhance creativity, improve competitiveness, and allow for deeper connections with customers. There was no talk of AI replacing humans but rather of augmenting creativity and processes.

At a panel hosted by Federpreziosi Confcommercio, industry experts discussed how AI can help jewelry designers push the boundaries of traditional design and better meet the needs of today’s consumers. The challenge lies in helping people see AI not as a threat but as a valuable tool for creative growth. Training and education are critical, and I was impressed by how seriously organizations take this initiative. (by the way, on Netflix, there is a new series by Bill Gates; the first part is all about the ethics and philosophy people in the AI development world are considering. It is fascinating)

Paola De Luca, founder of Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting, now owned by IEG, took this conversation further by suggesting that AI could be pivotal in making the industry more appealing to Gen Z and Gen Alpha—two generations proving challenging to engage with the traditional jewelry world. These younger generations are growing up in a tech-driven, digital-first world, and AI could help us modernize our approach and show them how jewelry and the jewelry industry fit into their lives. De Luca’s insights were on point—if we don’t evolve in how we communicate with younger audiences, we risk losing them altogether.

The Future of Luxury Is in Wonderland

One of the most inspiring sessions at VicenzaOro was “Wonderland: Co-creating Future Culture for Jewelry & Luxury,” where some of the biggest names in the industry discussed the new frontiers of luxury creativity. Hosted in the Palladio Theatre, the event brought together Paola De Luca, Carlo Pignataro (author and podcaster of LUX & Friend), Lorraine West (U.S. jewelry designer), and Gabriele Moschin from I-Clerk - Academy of AI Generative Art Professions.

The conversation centered on how reality, imagination, and storytelling are converging to create a new dimension of luxury. Carlo Pignataro emphasized that in today’s world, the most successful luxury brands are those that create experiential consumption. It’s no longer enough to offer a beautiful product—luxury brands must develop emotional connections with their audience. In the era of the Joy Economy, this means embracing everything from playfulness to augmented reality.

Lorraine West shared how her jewelry, worn by stars like Zendaya, Serena Williams, and Alicia Keys, acts as an expressive medium. She explained how individual storytelling is the foundation of her work, drawing from her background in hip-hop and street culture. Her designs are not just accessories; they are identity pieces, reflecting the wearer’s journey and personality. It’s no wonder that her work resonates so deeply with both celebrities and consumers. She and I had a moment after the show to connect, and it was inspiring to talk to her a little more about storytelling and her career. I absolutely loved her!

Closing the session, Gabriele Moschin discussed the fascinating connection between technology and creativity. He likened AI's role in design to photography's impact on art during Nadar’s time. Just as photography pushed traditional art into new, more abstract directions, AI is opening up new expressive possibilities in jewelry design. Rather than view AI as just a tool, Moschin encouraged us to think of it as a form of Abstract Imagination—a way to unlock ideas and designs that were previously unimaginable.

Paraiba Tourmaline: A Gem of Its Own

One of VicenzaOro's standout moments was the talk about the Paraiba Tourmaline gemstone, which has become increasingly popular in the industry. I absolutely love Paraiba, so I was thrilled to attend the presentation of the book written by Kevin Ferreira and Katerina Perez. Kevin’s presentation was fun, engaging, and packed with valuable information about this rare gem. He brought it to life, sharing his deep knowledge in a way everyone in the room could appreciate.

This session was incredibly well attended, leaving me thinking about how valuable such focused presentations are for the industry. We need more educational talks like this that dive deep into specific gemstones, trends, or design techniques. Kevin's presentation gave me many ideas for future discussions or workshops centered around the gems we love. It’s clear that Paraiba Tourmaline is here to stay, and with experts like Kevin sharing their insights, the future looks bright for this gem.

The La Prima Gioielli VIP Party: A Night to Remember

Saturday night was all about glamour, as La Prima Gioielli hosted an unforgettable VIP party for clients, the press, and influencers. I’ve attended plenty of events, but this one truly stood out. The atmosphere was electric—jewelry presentations that felt like an art exhibit, guests dressed to the nines, and a perfect blend of elegance and fun. The dinner took place in a magical orangery on a beautiful estate with ballerinas, storytelling magic, and live music by a violinist and a female band that rocked and set the mood into party mode. 

But let me tell you, the temperature was staggering that night. It was HOT, and to top it off, I got a huge blister from walking around all day. But did that ruin the fun? Absolutely not! The event was such a blast, even with the heat and my blistered foot. The presentations were flawless, and La Prima Gioielli really made us all feel like part of their exclusive family. It was a true celebration of the beauty of fine jewelry, and I’m so grateful to have been a part of it.

The Next Generation: A Worrisome Challenge

One topic that kept coming up throughout VicenzaOro was the industry's future. While we have so much innovation and beauty to celebrate, there’s also a looming concern—how do we get Gen Z and Gen Alpha interested in jewelry? These younger generations are the future of our industry, but they are notoriously difficult to engage. They are growing up in a digital-first world, heavily influenced by social media, technology, and fast fashion. How can traditional craftsmanship and the timelessness of jewelry appeal to them?

Paola De Luca suggested that AI could play a crucial role in bridging this gap. Using AI to create immersive and interactive experiences, we can make jewelry more relevant and attractive to younger audiences. She argued that it’s not just about designing pieces that speak to their style—it’s about presenting jewelry in a way that fits into their world. There is so much potential to connect with Gen Z and Gen Alpha, but it will require a shift in how we approach marketing, storytelling, and the workforce. The industry needs new people, influences, and energy to carry it forward—and the time to start is now.

Watches Steal the Show at VO’Clock Privé

It wasn’t just about jewelry at VicenzaOro. The VO’Clock Privé event, dedicated to watchmaking, offered a fascinating look into the world of high-end watches. The Experiences area was a real treat, featuring everything from Vincent Calabrese’s handcrafted timepieces to detailed demonstrations of watch photography techniques by Leica. One of the highlights was a workshop led by Kristian Dowling, a renowned photographer, who shared his expertise in capturing the beauty of watches through the lens.

I loved how the VO’Clock Privé event brought together craftsmanship, technology, and artistry in a way that felt truly special. Whether you’re a watch enthusiast or just someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, this event was an absolute must-see.

What’s Next for the Jewelry World?

Reflecting on my experience at VicenzaOro in September 2024, I’m excited about what’s next. The JGT Dubai event is coming up from 12th to 14th November, and I can’t wait to dive into more discussions on trends and technology. Closer to home, we have the Valenza Gem Forum on 10th October and the Italian Jewellery Summit in December, where the focus will shift to production districts and innovation. And, of course, I’m counting down the days until VicenzaOro January 2025, scheduled from 17th to 21st January.

A Final Thought: VicenzaOro Was an Absolute Success

All in all, VicenzaOro September 2024 was a massive success. It wasn’t just about the stunning collections or the global attendance figures—it was about the forward-thinking mindset pushing our industry into new and exciting territories. From AI and sustainability to engaging the next generation, meaningful discussions left me feeling optimistic about the future of jewelry.

To everyone I met along the way—what a time we had! Here’s to short nights, dazzling jewels, and a brighter community every year. Until the next edition! Keep sparkling, everyone!

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